Island of Yasawa Of all the Fiji islands the Yasawa (pronounced Yah-sow-wah) Group is the most archetypically `South Pacific'. Perhaps that is why both versions of Blue Lagoon were shot on location in the Yasawas. There are about 20 islands of volcanic origin which lie in a chain just off the northwest coast of Viti Levu. The island chain begins about 40 kilometers northwest of Lautoka and stretch for approximately 80 kilometers. From a distance they suggest a string of emerald beads lying on the horizon. Up close they are precipitous, with long stretches of sandy beaches fringed by azure waters. The beauty of Yasawa has lured the tourist dollar, which is fortuitous for villagers: arable land is limited, and some crops are difficult or even impossible to grow. The islands are a major attraction for cruise vessels originating in Lautoka, and in the last several years several backpacker and high-end accommodations have opened up on Waya.

A few things to do:Yasawa is fairly remote, so bring some books with you. Diving and snorkeling are good, beaches are terrific, and there is some trekking. Above all, it's a place to relax and enjoy the (uncommercial) solitude.Where to StayTavewa is a small, high island approximately 12 km in circumference. It is entirely freehold or privately held land, owned by a number of local families. Getting from one side to the other is no more than a ten minute walk. There are no vehicles, roads or stores. It's lush with vegetation and fruit trees include papaya and mango.On the island are three family run resorts, two of which cater primarily to backpackers. All three properties, Coral View , David's Place and Otto & Fanny Doughty's are located on flat grassy areas just a stone's throw from the beach, shaded by coconut palms. It's easy to get from one property to the other--Coral View is separated from David's Place and Fanny's (which are adjacent to each other) by a 10 minute walk across the rump of the island.All occupy white sand beaches that slope gently into the sea. David's and Coral View have dorm bures with bunks and more expensive (but very basic) grass shack bures for couples. The "best beach award" would probably go to David's but all are white sand and quite good. Both David's and Coral View provide regular trips to local points of interest such as villages and caves.Food at both David's and Coral View is filling but will not be confused with gourmet offerings. Food at Fanny's is reportedly a cut or two above. Henry, Fanny & Otto Doughty's son, is a trained chef and regularly bakes for guests. Afternoon tea is served by him and at the other properties as well. Otto & Fanny's is also a cut above in quality of accommodations. They have three excellent thatched roof bures that range in configuration from a small honeymoon cottage to larger family units that house up to eight. They are self contained and feature amenities like fridges and private bath. David's has eight basic bures and Coral View has twelve. Both David's and Coral View have dorms (where sheets are changed daily!) and individual units. No bures have private shower/bath except at Otto's & Fanny's. A major issue with some of Tavewa's properties is water or lack of it. Water at David's and Coral View is not potable. Coral View sells bottled water and is intending to put a desalinization unit in. Otto and Fanny have plenty of spring water which is suitable for drinking. None of the properties has hot water.All three resorts are served by a dive operation called Westside Watersports, run by the affable Lance Millar. His shop is on the beach, adjacent to Otto and Fanny's property. He provides PADI certification courses as well as the usual guided dives. He also rents snorkeling gear at a nominal price. Their main office is in Lautoka and they can be reached at 679 661 462Prices: Otto & Fanny's are F$65.00 per person for dormitory lodging and F$150.00 for double bures. (Prices for Otto & Fanny's include three full meals). Coral View's dorm prices (per person) are $F35 per night; F$77.00 for double standard; F$88.00 for double superior and F$27.50 for camping (including tents). David has double beachfront bures at F$88.00 for 2 people; dormitories that sleep 8 people for F$35.00 per person; and dorms that sleep 4 people for F$37.00 per person. (Prices quoted for David's include three full meals). Getting There: The south sea cruise boat leaves at 9 am daily from the Denarau Marina. Cost is F$80.00 each way and takes about 3.5 hours as it goes island hopping. Coral View has by far the fastest and largest boat to Tavewa. This is very important because the journey is about two hours in length and can be difficult in rough seas. You can also fly by seaplane which takes 30 minutes to reach Tavewa and it is F$89.00 each way. Bookings for David's can be made at their office at the Nadi Airport facility. You may call, fax or emai them respectively at 679 721 820, 679 721 820 or at davidsplacefiji@is.com.fj. Coral View also has its own agent at Nadi Airport as well. Coral view's Nadi airport no. is 679-724 199 or at Lautoka office on 679 669 316 or by email coral@is.com.fj. Otto & Fanny do not have an office at Nadi airport but bookings can be made directly at 679 666 481 or via snail mail at box 1349, lautoka. You can also reach them via West Side Water Sports via 679 661 462 or westside@is.com.fj.Divetrek Wayasewa is located on Wayasewa and is perched on a hillside in a compound that was once a school. Above is a sheer cliff of basalt that is vaguely reminiscent of Bora Bora.One can also hike to the top with the help of a guide for a small fee which provides marvellous view. DW is a bit more expensive than the Tavewa backpacker properties and has 5 individual thatched-roof bures with bath/toilet units (no hot water). Unlike Tavewa, water is plentiful on this island. There is a long stretch of beach opposite the resort but it's rockier than the Tavewa beaches. Directly opposite the site is a lovely view of Kuata Island offshore.What was special about this property, when I was last there, was its excellent food (including plenty of fresh fish) which more than made up for any other downsides. Unfortunately I've had at least one report since my last visit that was not positive about the food. I was told in no uncertain terms that food was not plentiful nor particularly appealing. The lesson here is that many of the smaller resorts have a tough time providing consistent service.Most of the dorm units are housed in what was the school house which has eight single rooms and six doubles. Quarters are rather cramped in the singles and some of the mattresses are not so comfortable but everything is quite clean. I'm told that management is replacing the old dorm mattresses soon.What also differentiates the property is that it's run by and for the benefit of the village. To my knowledge, it's the only resort in Fiji run by a village. It's popular with backpackers and as the name suggests there is a dive operation on the property. Other activities include village visits (a 10 minute boatride away) and day trips to various snorkelling spots, fishing expeditions, picnics and beaches for nominal fees. Activities at the resort such as "Island Night", BBQs and the like are planned on a regular basis.Getting there: Boat leaves from Lautoka Wharf. Call 679 724 364.Price: F$35 for single and F$77 for double occupancy in dorm units. Tents are available for around F$25 per person. Bures are F$100. F$330 for open water certification course and F$65 for one tank dive and F$100 for two tank dive.Octopus Resort is situated on gorgeous stretch of white sand beach on Waya Island, far off the beaten track. Though basic and minimalist, the environs are tastefully decorated and carefully thought out.The source of electricity is solar panels and there is plenty of good potable water available. Currently there is only cold water but this may change. There is one main structure, an open air bar/dining area shaded by a canopy under which about 25 people can be seated. It has a sand floor and a small walkup bar that serves very cold beer. There are three large, simple bures designed for double occupancy but can house up to ten individuals if necessary. Each has bath/toilet with tiled floor. The restaurant offerings include spaghetti, omlettes and very fresh seafood, chop suey, chicken dishes at reasonable prices. Though not strictly a backpacker property, Octopus does provide a dorm and camping for the time being and tents are available as well. Activities include snorkeling and day hikes.

Price: Daily tariff is $F88 double occupancy for bures. Dorms are F$30.50 pp. Camping is F$19 pp if you BYO tent or F$24 if Octopus Club provides it. (All Tariffs include breakfast and dinner.)

Getting There: OR has it's own boat which leaves from Lautoka. Call them at 679 666 337 or fax at 666 210.