Ovalau (pronounced O-vah-lau) is the principal island of the Lomaiviti group. Only 13 kilometers long and 11 kilometers wide, it is located off the eastern coast of Viti Levu.Of volcanic origin, the island is high, rugged and covered with dense vegetation. Its primary attraction is the old colonial capital of Levuka, a community of 1500 or so inhabitants. Nestled at the base of steep bluffs, Levuka has the ambience of a 19th century whaling town, which is exactly what it was. With weather-worn clapboard buildings, narrow streets, and ever-friendly residents, Levuka's harbor and bars at one time welcomed vessels from every seafaring nation. The feeling of the past is palpable in Levuka--so thick you can cut it with a knife, so dense it can be smothering. There are several good low end accommodations on the island and offshore. If you are even remotely interested in the colonial history of the South Pacific, Levuka is an attraction you should not miss. One can travel there via plane (a ten minute flight from Nausori Airport) or via ferry from Suva.

A few things to do:
Have a beer at the Ovalau Club and drink in the colonial ambience. For good measure, walk down the street and have a nightcap at the Levuka Club. See the graveyard in town and feel the spirits of the past. In the other direction is the Cession Bure, so named because it were here that the Fiji Islands were ceded to Great Britain in 1874. If you have time, trek to Lovoni Village, which is located in the basin of an extinct volcano. Offshore from Ovalau are several backpacker resorts that cater to the lean of budget. If you are in town and are in need of a good meal, have lunch at the Whale's Tale.

Where to stay:

The Royal Hotel (see above photo) is a classic accommodation--it's the oldest operating hotel in the South Pacific. It has dorm facilities as well as regular rooms. Mavida is also a good choice. If you want to spend a few dollars check out the Sailor's Home, a restored house, circa 1870.