Fiji: Island Of Vanua Levu

Vanua Levu (pronounce Va-new-ah Lay-vu), with a population of approximately 130,000, is the second largest island of the Fiji archipelago. With an area of 5538 square kilometers, it is slightly larger than half the size of Viti Levu. The island measures 180 kilometers long and has an average width of 33 kilometers. The island is rugged, untrammeled and the coast is surrounded by an extensive system of coral reefs. Once a center for the copra trade, sugar cultivation is the most important industry and large cane fields can be seen on the dry western and northern coasts. There is a system of roads but they are not as extensive nor as well maintained as on the main island of Viti Levu (except for the newly paved road linking Savusavu and Labasa).

Although very near Viti Levu in distance (64 km northeast) it is less developed and less frequented by tourists. Vanua Levu thus offers the guest an ideal opportunity to observe local traditions and culture, relatively untarnished by tourism. The largest centers of population are Labasa and Savusavu, but they are small towns compared to the larger urban centers on Viti Levu. Labasa, largely an Indian community, is a thriving business center tied to the sugar industry. Savusavu, a smaller less developed town, is gaining popularity as a dive destination and yachting community. It has a truly magnificent bay and a friendly local yacht club. One can travel to Vanua Levu either by flying to Savusavu or Labasa, or via local ferry boat from Viti Levu.

About Savusavu

Savusavu (population 5000) is a gritty, one-horse town with a several block long main drag facing the bay. The store fronts are rustic and in some cases ramshackle. The town’s economy, is however on the mend and town fathers are making a serious effort to change the aesthetics. This includes paving the parking lot next to the outdoor market, paving and widening the highway between town and the airport (about 20 km along the Hibiscus Highway) and planting palm trees along the streets.

Although recent political turmoil has slowed development, a new mining operation in the mountains and increased tourism is slowly adding dollars to the economy. In addition sales of lots to outsiders (many from the USA) are making this area a desintaion for retirees.

The most striking aspects about Savusavu are the incredible beauty of Savusavu Bay and the hot springs, which add a surreal, twilight zone quality. The hot springs are scattered liberally around the city limits. Steam rises literally from the cracks in the sidewalks, in grassy lots, from the seashore and even from the municipal pier which has to be paved periodically due to the corrosion from the thermal activity. Geologically, the whole town is kind of a devils kitchen, which locals have adapted to. For more info on the area check out Savusavu’s official Web site.

What to do in Savusavu

Rent a car and explore the Hibiscus Highway. If you don’t want to rent a car, you can negotiate a taxi for a half-day’s exploratory tour for F$50 or thereabouts. Trek, dive, sail or windsurf. (Windsurfers should note that the nearby lagoon has some of the best sailboarding conditions in the world.) Grab a beer at the Planters Club, a classic South Seas haunt, and catch up on the local gossip. You’ll probably hear more than you bargained for. Have a cup of coffee or a scone at the Copra Shed Marina and take in the view of incredible Savusavu Bay. The Copra Shed was formerly just that, a warehouse for copra before its  shipment to processing plants. The structure was gutted, completely rebuilt and now is home to various offices including Beachcomber Shipping, Sun Air, Air Fiji, Savusavu Yacht Club, Captain’s Cafe, a gift shop, a marine supply store, a real estate office, Customs offices and Eco Divers-Tours, a local tour operator that provides visits to some newly accessible archeological sites as well taking care of divers.

Where to Stay

Davids Holiday House, in Savusavu will suit backpackers just fine. The Hot Springs Hotel, under new management, is reasonably priced and has a fine view of the Bay. It has backpacker dorms as well as “regular” hotel rooms. The Driftwood Inn near town, also has great views and is a good mid-range option for families. If you like the idea of a B&B, Naqere Estate which is about a 45 minute drive from Savusavu and on the water, is well worth considering. On the top end you can stay at Lomalagi (which has wonderful views of Natewa Bay) or a pricier alternative, Namale Plantation.

Labasa: Labasa (pronounced Lam-bah-sah) is a hot, dusty sugar mill town entirely dependent upon cane which is grown in great quantities in the area. With a population of about 25,000, it’s much larger than Savusavu and entirely different in nature. The population is primarilly Indian in origin and consists of Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs, with their distinctive turbins. The surrounding countryside, covered with cane and golden sunburnt hills also has volcanically sculpted black lava outcroppings in nearby Vunika. During cane crushing season (between June and January) keep an eye out for trucks overloaded with cane heading for the mill.

What to do in Labasa

Labasa is primarily a business town but shopping for Indian clothing such as saris or jewellery is first rate. Check out shops such as Meenos or the Kalynajipala Emporium for clothing or Vasram’s Jewellery Store for these items. Activities such as golf and tennis are available at the FSC (Fiji Sugar Corporation) Club. Other private clubs (which are available to visitors) such as the Farmers Club and the Labasa Club are good places places to sip a beer and meet the locals. There are several good places to eat in town including Bhindis for a homemade samosa or a sandwich or Hare Krishna Restaurant for a curry.

Where to Stay

Backpackers will find the Riverview Motel to their liking while mid-range or business travellers should have good luck with the Friendly North Inn, a new establishment. For business travellers or those who want a modicum of comfort my try the Grand Eastern.