Your ultimate private, luxury Fiji resort awaits. Taveuni Palms is one of the world’s most exquisite luxury accommodation estates. Each luxury villa at Taveuni Palms sits on its own private acre of absolute beachfront and boasts its own private pool, beach and personal staff of seven. Your private beachfront retreat is a spacious two-bedroom, two-bathroom villa, richly decorated with Fijian flair.

One of the most renowned vacation destinations in the South Pacific, the award-winning, five-star  Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort is located on 17 acres of a coconut plantation on the island of Vanua Levu, overlooking the turquoise blue waters of Savusavu Bay.

The celebrated resort is a favorite spot for romance, honeymoons and weddings. It’s a great choice for families who want to combine breathtaking surroundings and superb dining with a wide range of eco-friendly activities such as snorkeling, a day of ecological awareness or a trip to the rain forest capped off by a dip in a gorgeous freshwater jungle pool.

Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort was the brainchild of Jean-Michel Cousteau, son of the world-famous oceanographer, Jacques Cousteau. Managed by Passport Resorts LLC, the philosophy of the Fiji Islands Resort is to “minimize its footprint on the environment, look for ways to give back to the environment and the local communities and to show respect to everyone they share the planet with”—a philosophy that is evident in all of the resort’s operations and business practices, according to co-owners Mike Freed and Peter Heinemann.

Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort offers a number of accommodations ranging in price from $669 to $1,103. Included in the room rates are all meals, non-alcoholic bottled beverages, and ground transfers to and from Savusavu Airport. Daily meals feature a full cooked or continental breakfast with fresh-baked pastries, tropical fruits, fresh seafood or eggs any style. For lunch and dinner, a daily table d’hôte menu offers international cuisine selections and a healthy, vegetarian option. The resort also offers comprehensive massage and spa services ranging in price from $65 to $125.

The resort boasts 24 Fijian-style, thatched-roof oceanfront and garden view bures, scattered among elegant palm trees. You’ll also find Fiji’s most luxurious accommodation: a 2,000-square-foot Villa.

Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort is the only resort that employs a full-time marine biologist to help visitors appreciate the underwater world of Fiji. The resort offers a wide variety of eco-activities, led either by the resident marine biologist or the award-winning cultural host. It also offers one of the top reef-preservation dive operations on Fiji.

Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort integrates conservation and preservation of the natural surroundings into every aspect of its operations. Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort uses organic, earth-friendly, sustainable, recyclable products or resources.

From the use of solar energy, Fiji’s first water reclamation plant—something co-owner Mike Freed is especially proud of—its eco-sensitive design and landscaping to composting, organic gardens and community programs, the resort offers its guests an experience that is not only luxurious but environmentally responsible as well

“Whether it’s in our food and beverage operations or whether it’s in our housekeeping practices or whether it’s in our energy consumption, our philosophy is to develop the best operating practices,” Heinemann says.

Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort’s sister luxury resorts also maintain the same high level of environmentally conscious standards.

Post Ranch, Innsituated on the cliffs of Big Sur, Calif., offers guests accommodations for a romantic getaway or a relaxing vacation. The resort’s organic architecture embraces the dramatic beauty of the Big Sur coastline.

Cavallo Point, the Lodge at the Golden Gate in Sausalito, Calif., has been created by the Fort Baker Retreat Group, a project of Passport Resorts, Equity Community Builders and the Ajax Capital Group. Cavallo Point is committed to the highest standards of historic preservation and sustainability—in keeping with the mission of the national park site.

Sea Ranch Lodge, located on the bluffs of California’s Sonoma-Mendocino coast is one of the first eco-communities, started in the late 60s and early 70s. Like its sister resorts, Sea Ranch Lodge offers guests an environmentally friendly experience that includes a commitment to energy efficiency, water conservation, recycling, environmentally safe cleaning, reduction of waste, ongoing maintenance, and eco-friendly purchasing habits.

At the end of the day, what truly sets Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands Resort, as well as all of its sister properties, apart from other resorts is its commitment to safeguarding the environment for future generations while lavishing their guests with incredible luxury and pampering.

Stunning!

The pilot glanced down at the island beneath our wings, jerked his thumb twice to say we had arrived and grinned. Don and I looked through the struts of our four-seater aircraft and saw a South Sea island complete with a fringe of white coral sand and a blue lagoon.

An ice-cold bottle of Champagne awaited. The bure could not have been better equipped. A fridge packed with victuals, a cupboard with towelling robes and windcheaters, a shower as big as a bedroom, two loos, two sinks with lots of fluffy towels and the aforementioned Jacuzzi.

Richard Evanson bought Turtle Island in 1972, a bare rock covering 500 acres, over which a herd of feral goats roamed. He arrived by helicopter; Joe Naisali, paddling over in a canoe to see the helicopter, was hired on the spot as a Man Friday. They survived a typhoon together by clinging to an uprooted banyan tree. Over the next few years they built bures, solved the goat problem by eating them and transformed the rock into a lush paradise.

With topsoil no longer washing into the sea, the reef swiftly became one of the richest in Fiji. Then a film crew descended to make The Blue Lagoon. Brooke Shields moved into Bure 2 and everything was transformed. Even time itself changed because the crew set the clocks forward an hour. Turtle time is still an hour ahead of the rest of Fiji.

Newcomers introduce themselves over dinner, which is what we did on that first evening. Rob, as an urbane host, presided over the long table set out under the banyan tree. It was lit by hurricane lamps and decorated with pots of orchids. Over steak Don and I chatted to Greg and Stephanie, a pair of honeymooners from Michigan. But I abandoned all pretence at conversation with the arrival of a chocolate truffle cake that turned out to be a milk chocolate pudding and white chocolate ice cream drizzled with dark chocolate sauce.

We went snorkelling off Paddy’s Island the next day, floating across acres of yellow coral waving with the surge of the sea. A shoal of black and white damselfish, looking very much like mint humbugs, swam past. Bright red and white clown fish poked their faces out of a sea anemone, while a yellow and black angelfish picked a fight with a blue-striped wrasse. I passed over a great tabletop patch of brain coral as our guide, Daniel, tapped me on the shoulder to show me a midnight blue starfish.

Sharon and James, who were picnicking on Shell Beach beyond Paddy’s Island, appeared alongside the boat. “Come to see what you were doing,” they said. It was our turn to picnic on Shell Island the following day. We waded ashore with Inia carrying the picnic basket and hammock, which he set up as we pottered along the beach. The picnic box contained a whole lobster, rolls and butter, salad, pineapple, pawpaw and a great jug of watermelon juice beaded with moisture. The hammock was made for two and as we lay back, eating lobster with our fingers, the sea breeze wafted over us.

It was time to leave Turtle. They draped garlands of hibiscus flowers around our necks and Daniel, Wainise, Alisi and Inia accompanied us towards the seaplane. Inia began to strum a guitar and they sang Ise Lei, a sad farewell to Fiji. The engine roared and we lifted off over the blue lagoon. “Throw your garland into the water and then if it drifts ashore you will return,” said James. I watched as it floated towards the beach.

I am not a plane-lover. And I particularly do not like planes that hold only six people, are powered by ridiculously tiny propellers, and are under the control of a pilot who never stops laughing. So my flight to Taveuni, one of Fiji’s more northerly islands, did not start well and I cursed my husband for yet another stupid idea.

Taveuni has only four resorts, all of them small and family-run, and everyone knows everyone else… including you. Total strangers greet you by name, ask how you are enjoying your stay, or tell you that their sister is the chef at your resort. They shook our hands, introduced themselves and said how pleased they were to meet us. And they did it all in a way that made us believe it.

Our first experience of this Fijian hospitality was on arrival at the tiny landing strip (it hardly qualifies for the name airport) when we were met by Tomasi, a huge Fijian in a ridiculously loud shirt who could barely stop chuckling long enough to tell us that the drive to Taveuni Island Resort would take all of two minutes.

Sure enough, three minutes later we were sitting in the resort’s outdoor dining room, admiring the incredible view of the glistening ocean, the beach below, and the infinity pool, and being served a tropical breakfast, a mouth-watering precursor to the gourmet meals with which we were to be plied throughout our stay.

We were staying in one of the resort’s 12 bures, a fantasy cottage made of local timber, with floor-to-ceiling windows. Beautifully furnished with tropical décor, it included many a reason to remain prone for the length of the stay – sumptuous sofas, four-poster bed and, on the veranda with an unbelievable view, huge sun-loungers.

But I was itching to get in among the coral. The hotel offered to organise a boat trip to one of the many famous dive sites, but I chose to wander down to the beach and was rewarded with the best snorkelling I have ever known, hard and soft coral of myriad bright colours, and a huge array of fish. When my digits shrivelled beyond recognition I helped myself to a kayak on the beach and continued perusing the coral from above.

Tempting though it was never to leave, I allowed myself to be talked into seeing a bit more of the island. It is tiny, only 26 miles long and 7½ miles wide, and not even all of that is habitable. The east coast is wild, rugged and impenetrable. The resort did offer to hire a boat so we could see it from the sea, describing it as huge cliffs punctuated with cascading waterfalls, but we declined, fearing the effect on our stomachs.

The road that follows the calmer west coast is paved for only the 10 miles or so that run between the airport and the tiny town. The rest is a dirt track, which we followed to its northern end. It was not just the bumpiness of the road that made this a slow journey.

There was the unscheduled stop to let a family of piglets cross in front of us, and also the fact that our driver slowed to wave at almost every person we passed: “That is my cousin doing the spear fishing… that is my neighbour washing her clothes in the stream… those are my children’s friends playing on the side of the road…”

The end of the road having finally been attained, we continued on foot along a coastal path with views over the beaches to our left, magnificent rainforest to our right. Our knowledgeable guide filled us in on all the remedies the locals derived from the bark and leaves of the various trees.

After an easy couple of hours this entertaining nature walk culminated with our arrival at a water hole filled by magnificent waterfalls pouring in from either side. The water was not warm but it was clear and fresh and full of fish, and it was impossible to pass up the opportunity of having such a wonderful place all to ourselves.

Swimming as close as I dared to the raging falls I realised that I was in a microcosm of Taveuni itself, a totally natural place, unspoilt, beautiful – and great fun.

Once a small community of farmers and shopkeepers, Nadi has mushroomed into a mini megalopolis of approximately 20,000 inhabitants – Fiji’s third-largest city. The area surrounding Nadi – a patchwork of sugar cane fields – has the highest concentration of hotels and resorts in the entire country. This is where most visitors spend a lot of their time because of its proximity to the airport (nine km from the town) and the fine weather.

Nadi is a hot, dry town, little more than one long main drag but it’s growing, mostly fueled by the tourism industry. Nadi town is perhaps the best place in Fiji to pick up souvenirs and there are good places to eat.

Though the town may not appeal to everyone, the surrounding countryside is rolling and verdant, the beaches are relatively unpopulated, and the mountainous region (known as the Nausori Highlands) to the east is nothing short of spectacular. Seeing the Nausori Highlands is well worth it but roads can be rough and/or muddy and car rental agencies wouldn’t be happy if they knew you had plans to explore remote areas.

Having a large Indian population, Nadi is a religious center for Muslims and Hindus. The major place of worship for Hindus is the multi- chromatic new Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple temple on the east side of town. The Hindu shrine is reportedly the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. Visitors are welcomed but cameras are tabu on the temple grounds. Be sure to take off your shoes before entering.

Where to eat?

The B-Y (or Bi-Yuen) Restaurant is perhaps the best Chinese Restaurant in town. The restaurant is clean, modern and specialty is seafood served mostly Sezchuan style. Try the deep fried Opakapaka. Located on Nadi’s Main Street on the west side of town. F$10-20.

Bounty Restaurant in the Martintar district of Nadi is a large air-conditioned eatery serving a range of Indian, Chinese and Continental Cuisine. The dining area is large, underlit but pleasant. The Bounty is located about 100 meters east of Dominion Hotel. F$10-25.

The Curry Restaurant on the main drag in town is town is clean, modern and serves excellent curry. Prices range from F$10-20 for an entree.

Chef’s has Nadi’s finest continental, located outside of a hotel. Decor is modern very chi-chi by Fiji standards–there is ample tile and pastel colors. The dining area is large and a fancy well stocked bar is on the premises. Food is reportedly very good. Chef’s is located at the end of Sagayam Road, just off main street in downtown Nadi. F$20-50.

The Corner Restaurant in downtown Nadi is owned and operated by same people that own Chef’s. Long and narrow it is configured like a classic American diner complete with and a cafeteria counter and booths that line the walls. Good cheap food can be had here including chop suey, Thai curry, fried rice, steak, sandwiches, hot dogs, pasteries, shakes, and other items. Their homemade ice cream is superb. F$6-16 range.

What to do:

Internet Planet is the place to check out for Internet connectivity. There are a half a dozen or so computers and, for your viewing pleasure, it doubles as a DVD and video store. It’s located on Queens Road in the Martintar district (next to Bounty Resturant) between downtown Nadi and the airport. You can reach them at 725 130.

Shopping: Get your souvenirs in Nadi. Jack’s in downtown Nadi is a good place to start. They have a good quality stuff ranging from handicrafts to clothing. It’s more like a department store. Sogos, across the street and down the road from Jack’s has good quality clothing for men and women. Check out their Tabu Soro sports wear. Be sure and see the public market in town. Oh, yeah the Post Office has a great array of inexepensive postcard sand stamps for Philatelists. (Go here for a primer on shopping in Fiji).

Go to the Beach: Wailioaloa Beach—The 1/2 mile stretch of brown beach (which is not particularly beautiful sand) has on north end is Travellers beach Resort and Club Fiji to the sourth. The beach is popular with local familes which swim there (adults swim usually fully clothed) or beer drinkers, particularly on the weekends. At Club Fiji or Travellers one can buy a beer a meal and/or use the hotel facilities. Swimming: is not particularly good. The waves churn the water near the shore brown. If you are going to swim at all, you’re better off on the north end. The south end has a preponderance of mud flats, especially at low tide. However, the Club Fiji is a nicer venue. There is a pool, better restaurant, landscaped gardens, deck chairs, palapas and water sports facilities.

Go Diving: The local dive operators (the best being Aqua-Trek) will take you on day trips to the nearby Mamanuca islands.

Visit the Mamanuca Islands: There are a myriad of day trips to the Mamanuca Group. You can either fly or take a boat.

Surf : Inquire at Viti Surf Legend at the Nadi Bay Hotel.

Guided Tours to the Hinterlands: There’s more to Nadi than town! To see the great outdoors consider taking a half day or full day guided tour with Isaia Seru, a distinguished Fijan man, who can take you around in his 4-wheel drive vehicle to the picturesque Nausori Highlands, Sabeto Valley, Sigatoka Valley or Navala Village–one of the few remaining villages with tradtional thatched roof bures (homes). Isaia is a personable guy who has a great deal of knowledge of the area. Tours are very reasonably priced and available in full or half day increments. You can reach him at 700 396 or by fax at 702-322. His mailing address is PO BOX 10179, Nadi Airport, Fiji Islands.

Nightlife: It’s generally pretty quiet round Nadi town. Bobby McGee’s Night Club caters to the local crowd which can be entertaining but full of drunks. Planter’s Club, the night club at the Sheraton is usually the hot local scene but it’s smoke filled, loud and far from town. The best place to meet locals and lonely flight attendants are the hotels such as the Tanoa, Mocambo or Ed’s, nightclub, for weekend dances.

Of all the Fiji islands the Yasawa (pronounced Yah-sow-wah) Group is the most archetypically `South Pacific’. Perhaps that is why both versions of Blue Lagoon were shot on location in the Yasawas. There are about 20 islands of volcanic origin which lie in a chain just off the northwest coast of Viti Levu. The island chain begins about 40 kilometers northwest of Lautoka and stretch for approximately 80 kilometers. From a distance they suggest a string of emerald beads lying on the horizon. Up close they are precipitous, with long stretches of sandy beaches fringed by azure waters. The beauty of Yasawa has lured the tourist dollar, which is fortuitous for villagers: arable land is limited, and some crops are difficult or even impossible to grow. The islands are a major attraction for cruise vessels originating in Lautoka, and in the last several years several backpacker and high-end accommodations have opened up on Waya.

A few things to do:

Yasawa is fairly remote, so bring some books with you. Diving and snorkeling are good, beaches are terrific, and there is some trekking. Above all, it’s a place to relax and enjoy the (uncommercial) solitude.

Where to Stay

Tavewa is a small, high island approximately 12 km in circumference. It is entirely freehold or privately held land, owned by a number of local families. Getting from one side to the other is no more than a ten minute walk. There are no vehicles, roads or stores. It’s lush with vegetation and fruit trees include papaya and mango.

On the island are three family run resorts, two of which cater primarily to backpackers. All three properties, Coral View , David’s Place and Otto & Fanny Doughty’s are located on flat grassy areas just a stone’s throw from the beach, shaded by coconut palms. It’s easy to get from one property to the other–Coral View is separated from David’s Place and Fanny’s (which are adjacent to each other) by a 10 minute walk across the rump of the island.

All occupy white sand beaches that slope gently into the sea. David’s and Coral View have dorm bures with bunks and more expensive (but very basic) grass shack bures for couples. The “best beach award” would probably go to David’s but all are white sand and quite good. Both David’s and Coral View provide regular trips to local points of interest such as villages and caves.

Food at both David’s and Coral View is filling but will not be confused with gourmet offerings. Food at Fanny’s is reportedly a cut or two above. Henry, Fanny & Otto Doughty’s son, is a trained chef and regularly bakes for guests. Afternoon tea is served by him and at the other properties as well. Otto & Fanny’s is also a cut above in quality of accommodations. They have three excellent thatched roof bures that range in configuration from a small honeymoon cottage to larger family units that house up to eight. They are self contained and feature amenities like fridges and private bath. David’s has eight basic bures and Coral View has twelve. Both David’s and Coral View have dorms (where sheets are changed daily!) and individual units. No bures have private shower/bath except at Otto’s & Fanny’s.

A major issue with some of Tavewa’s properties is water or lack of it. Water at David’s and Coral View is not potable. Coral View sells bottled water and is intending to put a desalinization unit in. Otto and Fanny have plenty of spring water which is suitable for drinking. None of the properties has hot water.

All three resorts are served by a dive operation called Westside Watersports, run by the affable Lance Millar. His shop is on the beach, adjacent to Otto and Fanny’s property. He provides PADI certification courses as well as the usual guided dives. He also rents snorkeling gear at a nominal price. Their main office is in Lautoka and they can be reached at 679 661 462

Prices: Otto & Fanny’s are F$65.00 per person for dormitory lodging and F$150.00 for double bures. (Prices for Otto & Fanny’s include three full meals). Coral View’s dorm prices (per person) are $F35 per night; F$77.00 for double standard; F$88.00 for double superior and F$27.50 for camping (including tents). David has double beachfront bures at F$88.00 for 2 people; dormitories that sleep 8 people for F$35.00 per person; and dorms that sleep 4 people for F$37.00 per person. (Prices quoted for David’s include three full meals).

Getting There: The south sea cruise boat leaves at 9 am daily from the Denarau Marina. Cost is F$80.00 each way and takes about 3.5 hours as it goes island hopping. Coral View has by far the fastest and largest boat to Tavewa. This is very important because the journey is about two hours in length and can be difficult in rough seas. You can also fly by seaplane which takes 30 minutes to reach Tavewa and it is F$89.00 each way.

Bookings for David’s can be made at their office at the Nadi Airport facility. You may call, fax or emai them respectively at 679 721 820, 679 721 820 or at davidsplacefiji@is.com.fj. Coral View also has its own agent at Nadi Airport as well. Coral view’s Nadi airport no. is 679-724 199 or at Lautoka office on 679 669 316 or by email coral@is.com.fj. Otto & Fanny do not have an office at Nadi airport but bookings can be made directly at 679 666 481 or via snail mail at box 1349, lautoka. You can also reach them via West Side Water Sports via 679 661 462 or westside@is.com.fj.

Divetrek Wayasewa is located on Wayasewa and is perched on a hillside in a compound that was once a school. Above is a sheer cliff of basalt that is vaguely reminiscent of Bora Bora.One can also hike to the top with the help of a guide for a small fee which provides marvellous view. DW is a bit more expensive than the Tavewa backpacker properties and has 5 individual thatched-roof bures with bath/toilet units (no hot water). Unlike Tavewa, water is plentiful on this island. There is a long stretch of beach opposite the resort but it’s rockier than the Tavewa beaches. Directly opposite the site is a lovely view of Kuata Island offshore.

What was special about this property, when I was last there, was its excellent food (including plenty of fresh fish) which more than made up for any other downsides. Unfortunately I’ve had at least one report since my last visit that was not positive about the food. I was told in no uncertain terms that food was not plentiful nor particularly appealing. The lesson here is that many of the smaller resorts have a tough time providing consistent service.

Most of the dorm units are housed in what was the school house which has eight single rooms and six doubles. Quarters are rather cramped in the singles and some of the mattresses are not so comfortable but everything is quite clean. I’m told that management is replacing the old dorm mattresses soon.

What also differentiates the property is that it’s run by and for the benefit of the village. To my knowledge, it’s the only resort in Fiji run by a village. It’s popular with backpackers and as the name suggests there is a dive operation on the property. Other activities include village visits (a 10 minute boatride away) and day trips to various snorkelling spots, fishing expeditions, picnics and beaches for nominal fees. Activities at the resort such as “Island Night”, BBQs and the like are planned on a regular basis.

Getting there: Boat leaves from Lautoka Wharf. Call 679 724 364.

Price: F$35 for single and F$77 for double occupancy in dorm units. Tents are available for around F$25 per person. Bures are F$100. F$330 for open water certification course and F$65 for one tank dive and F$100 for two tank dive.

Octopus Resort is situated on gorgeous stretch of white sand beach on Waya Island, far off the beaten track. Though basic and minimalist, the environs are tastefully decorated and carefully thought out.

The source of electricity is solar panels and there is plenty of good potable water available. Currently there is only cold water but this may change. There is one main structure, an open air bar/dining area shaded by a canopy under which about 25 people can be seated. It has a sand floor and a small walkup bar that serves very cold beer. There are three large, simple bures designed for double occupancy but can house up to ten individuals if necessary. Each has bath/toilet with tiled floor. The restaurant offerings include spaghetti, omlettes and very fresh seafood, chop suey, chicken dishes at reasonable prices. Though not strictly a backpacker property, Octopus does provide a dorm and camping for the time being and tents are available as well. Activities include snorkeling and day hikes.

Price: Daily tariff is $F88 double occupancy for bures. Dorms are F$30.50 pp. Camping is F$19 pp if you BYO tent or F$24 if Octopus Club provides it. (All Tariffs include breakfast and dinner.)

Getting There: OR has it’s own boat which leaves from Lautoka. Call them at 679 666 337 or fax at 666 210.

Vanua Levu (pronounce Va-new-ah Lay-vu), with a population of approximately 130,000, is the second largest island of the Fiji archipelago. With an area of 5538 square kilometers, it is slightly larger than half the size of Viti Levu. The island measures 180 kilometers long and has an average width of 33 kilometers. The island is rugged, untrammeled and the coast is surrounded by an extensive system of coral reefs. Once a center for the copra trade, sugar cultivation is the most important industry and large cane fields can be seen on the dry western and northern coasts. There is a system of roads but they are not as extensive nor as well maintained as on the main island of Viti Levu (except for the newly paved road linking Savusavu and Labasa).

Although very near Viti Levu in distance (64 km northeast) it is less developed and less frequented by tourists. Vanua Levu thus offers the guest an ideal opportunity to observe local traditions and culture, relatively untarnished by tourism. The largest centers of population are Labasa and Savusavu, but they are small towns compared to the larger urban centers on Viti Levu. Labasa, largely an Indian community, is a thriving business center tied to the sugar industry. Savusavu, a smaller less developed town, is gaining popularity as a dive destination and yachting community. It has a truly magnificent bay and a friendly local yacht club. One can travel to Vanua Levu either by flying to Savusavu or Labasa, or via local ferry boat from Viti Levu.

About Savusavu

Savusavu (population 5000) is a gritty, one-horse town with a several block long main drag facing the bay. The store fronts are rustic and in some cases ramshackle. The town’s economy, is however on the mend and town fathers are making a serious effort to change the aesthetics. This includes paving the parking lot next to the outdoor market, paving and widening the highway between town and the airport (about 20 km along the Hibiscus Highway) and planting palm trees along the streets.

Although recent political turmoil has slowed development, a new mining operation in the mountains and increased tourism is slowly adding dollars to the economy. In addition sales of lots to outsiders (many from the USA) are making this area a desintaion for retirees.

The most striking aspects about Savusavu are the incredible beauty of Savusavu Bay and the hot springs, which add a surreal, twilight zone quality. The hot springs are scattered liberally around the city limits. Steam rises literally from the cracks in the sidewalks, in grassy lots, from the seashore and even from the municipal pier which has to be paved periodically due to the corrosion from the thermal activity. Geologically, the whole town is kind of a devils kitchen, which locals have adapted to. For more info on the area check out Savusavu’s official Web site.

What to do in Savusavu

Rent a car and explore the Hibiscus Highway. If you don’t want to rent a car, you can negotiate a taxi for a half-day’s exploratory tour for F$50 or thereabouts. Trek, dive, sail or windsurf. (Windsurfers should note that the nearby lagoon has some of the best sailboarding conditions in the world.) Grab a beer at the Planters Club, a classic South Seas haunt, and catch up on the local gossip. You’ll probably hear more than you bargained for. Have a cup of coffee or a scone at the Copra Shed Marina and take in the view of incredible Savusavu Bay. The Copra Shed was formerly just that, a warehouse for copra before its  shipment to processing plants. The structure was gutted, completely rebuilt and now is home to various offices including Beachcomber Shipping, Sun Air, Air Fiji, Savusavu Yacht Club, Captain’s Cafe, a gift shop, a marine supply store, a real estate office, Customs offices and Eco Divers-Tours, a local tour operator that provides visits to some newly accessible archeological sites as well taking care of divers.

Where to Stay

Davids Holiday House, in Savusavu will suit backpackers just fine. The Hot Springs Hotel, under new management, is reasonably priced and has a fine view of the Bay. It has backpacker dorms as well as “regular” hotel rooms. The Driftwood Inn near town, also has great views and is a good mid-range option for families. If you like the idea of a B&B, Naqere Estate which is about a 45 minute drive from Savusavu and on the water, is well worth considering. On the top end you can stay at Lomalagi (which has wonderful views of Natewa Bay) or a pricier alternative, Namale Plantation.

Labasa: Labasa (pronounced Lam-bah-sah) is a hot, dusty sugar mill town entirely dependent upon cane which is grown in great quantities in the area. With a population of about 25,000, it’s much larger than Savusavu and entirely different in nature. The population is primarilly Indian in origin and consists of Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs, with their distinctive turbins. The surrounding countryside, covered with cane and golden sunburnt hills also has volcanically sculpted black lava outcroppings in nearby Vunika. During cane crushing season (between June and January) keep an eye out for trucks overloaded with cane heading for the mill.

What to do in Labasa

Labasa is primarily a business town but shopping for Indian clothing such as saris or jewellery is first rate. Check out shops such as Meenos or the Kalynajipala Emporium for clothing or Vasram’s Jewellery Store for these items. Activities such as golf and tennis are available at the FSC (Fiji Sugar Corporation) Club. Other private clubs (which are available to visitors) such as the Farmers Club and the Labasa Club are good places places to sip a beer and meet the locals. There are several good places to eat in town including Bhindis for a homemade samosa or a sandwich or Hare Krishna Restaurant for a curry.

Where to Stay

Backpackers will find the Riverview Motel to their liking while mid-range or business travellers should have good luck with the Friendly North Inn, a new establishment. For business travellers or those who want a modicum of comfort my try the Grand Eastern.

Taveuni (pronounced Tah-vee-ew-nee), the garden island of Fiji, is rugged, wet, verdant and pristine. It lies only seven kilometers off the southeast coast of Vanua Levu and is 42 kilometers long and averages about 11 kilometers wide. Taveuni is a archetypically beautiful tropical island, thick with vegetation and resplendent with tropical flowers. It offers the visitor a rich natural history, in particular, a fine array of birdlife. Fortunately (unlike other island in the Fiji archipelago) the mongoose was never introduced to Taveuni and consequently many of the birds that have vanished on Viti Levu and Vanua Levu still thrive on the Garden Island. Once the home of fierce warriors, Taveuni residents still exude pride and confidence in their step.

With a population of around 12,000 inhabitants, Taveuni is sparsely populated. Virtually all of whom live in traditional Fijian villages and are quite hospitable. Once known for its coconut plantations, Taveuni’s attractions include world class diving, water falls, and an array of rare, indigenous flora and fauna. Taveuni has a number of excellent low and mid-ranged accommodations. The island can be reached via air from Nadi or Suva or on a local ferryboat.

What to do in Taveuni

Site ofInternational Dateline
The 180th Meridian is about one kilometer south of the Garden Island Resort. Take a right from the entrance of the hotel and look for it on the ocean side of the road (on your right). This was where the international dateline once passed. The dateline was later changed so as not to bisect Taveuni. The Meridian Theater is located about one kilometer south of the dateline.

Warrior Burial Cave
Created by a lava tube, this cave is about 350 meters long and terminates at the ocean edge. In former times it was used by Fijians as a secret burial cave for warriors. It is believed that Taveuni’s greatest warriors were buried here in order to keep their remains hidden from enemies. Most of the large bones were removed in the 1950s after the cave was found. Guides will proudly show you the biers where their ancestors were laid to rest. As one would expect the cave is dark and damp. Be sure and bring your hiking shoes. The entire trip, which includes a short visit to Soqulu Plantation, is around F$40 for taxi and guide from the Garden Island Resort. Take your flashlight.

Waitavala Waterslide
This waterslide is a 20 minute walk north of the Garden Island Resort. It’s a picturesque spot and quite popular with the local kids. It’s secluded, verdant and filled with the laughter of children.

Golf & Tennis at Soqulu
A 15 minute drive south of the hotel is subdivision known as Soqulu Plantation or simply `Soqulu’ (pronounced Song-goo-loo). In addition to a number of homes, 30 condos and a club house, there is a 9-hole golf course, two tennis courts (one asphalt and one grass) and a lawn bowls green. All of the outdoor facilities are open to the public but the club house and condos, hasve been shut down. The links are situated on a gorgeous coastal strip of land. Unfortunately the condition of the course is less than magnificent but nonetheless it’s fun to play. (Cost for green fees, club hire and tees is F$20. One may also rent tennis rackets for F$8. Round trip taxi fare is F$12).

Wairiki Mission
The Wairiki Mission, only 20 minutes walk south of the hotel, is the most architecturally interesting edifice on the island. Situated on the edge of a splendid coconut plantation, it is also known at The Taveuni Catholic mission. It’s a good example of British colonial Romanesque architecture. Located on a hill, it overlooks the historic site where Taveuni warriors turned back thousands of invading Tongans in a battle that was fought in canoes just off the beach. It was this particular battle that turned the tide in a war that had seen the Tongan stake over much of Fiji. The locals celebrated by cooking their enemies and eating them with breadfruit. Modern day visitors are invited to attend Mass on Sundays from 7 am to 9 am. Definitely check it out, the singing is wonderful.

Bird Watching
As mentioned above, birding is world class on Taveuni. Access to Des Voeux Peak, a prime habitat is minutes from the Waiyevo area. You can either walk or take a 4-wheel drive vehicle nearly to the top of the 1195 meter peak, which is the second highest on the island. Likewise, Qeleni, on the northern end of the island also affords excellent bird watching. To get there one must take a 4-wheel drive vehicle about five kilometers up a mountain road. Both locales offer the chance to see Orange Breasted Doves, Silktails, Ferntails and Parrots. (Cost for these day trips ranges from F$60-80, depending on the hours the vehicle is utilized).

Vuna Village, Blow Hole, Vatuwiri Estate and Navakawau
Vuna, a village near the southernmost end of the island, played an important role in the early European settlement of the Island. The original plantations and homes of the early planters were purchased from Tui Vuna (the local chief) and at least one of the homes, Vatuwiri Farm, is within spitting distance of the village. (The Vatuwiri Estate is still owned by the Tarte family, who are descendants of the original settlers. On the property are the ruins of an old Fijian village and one can hike to an extinct volcanic crater). At the road’s terminus you reach Navakawau Village which translates as `end of the road’. En route you will pass a blow hole where the sea has eroded a passage at the edge of the shoreline. (Transportation cost ranges from F$60-80. A stop at Vatuwiri Farm is extra but higly recommended).

Lake Tagimaucia
Lake Tagimaucia is the most famous geographical landmark in Taveuni. Situated in an extinct volcanic crater, at a height of 832 meters, the lake is filled with floating masses of vegetation. It is also home to the indigenous tangimaucia flower which produces red blooms with white centers (see above photo). The lake is reachable on foot but the hike is an arduous all day affair. Better to take a 4-wheel drive vehicle and view the lake from afar. (Cost ranges from F$60-80).

Kayaking
Scrambler Ocean kayaks are available from Keni Madden in Matei and from the Garden Island Resort. They are easy to maneuver and one need not be a tri-athlete to use them. However, it helps to be in good physical condition. They can be rented on an hourly basis.

Boma Falls and Lavena area (Ravilevu) Nature Reserves
Both these areas are nature reserves protected from logging and development of any manner. Bouma is located in Tavoro National Park about one hour’s drive north of the hotel. The taxi will take you to a point just past the village of Bouma from which the falls are only a ten minute walk. Along some of the steeper grades there are step-like wooden levels with hand rails. Occasionally you must ford a creek but there is a rope to help navigate the rocks. (There is an admission fee to the park. Taxi fare is F$60 for a half day trip or F$80 for a full day. Your taxi can take up to five people so the trip can be quite reasonable if you have group.)

Lavena Village & Ravilevu Nature Reserve
This trip can be done in combination with Bouma Falls or separately. Past the falls turnoff you travel another 20 minutes along the road which brings you to one of the most picturesque villages on the island. This is the best beach on the island and is excellent for snorkeling. There is a five kilometer path that leads through the village vegetable gardens and along the pristine coastline. There are Fijian crafts for sale at the reception bure. (There is also an admission fee to the park. Taxi fare is F$60-80.)

Where to Stay on Taveuni

Starting from the Matei area (near the airport), the most popular backpacker haunts are Beverly Beach, Tovutovu and the newest, Todrasiga (see above photo) which I really liked. There are also two popular camping areas near towards the far side of island, Susie’s Plantation (which is under new management) and Kris Backpacker Palace. Tuvununu Paradise Garden, near Vuna, is also a possibility but it’s quite a trek from the airport. There are some nice inexpensive to mid-range properties near the airstrip such as The Little Dolphin, Karin’s Garden, Coconut Grove, Bibi’s Hideaway (always a good recommendation) or a delightful honeymoon cottage run by Audrey Brown. There is also a very decent one room rental property on Matei point, next to the Garden of Eden. Near Waiyevo, Garden Island Resort is also a reasonable mid-range property, primarily for divers. On the top end you can either stay at Maravu or for stupendous views and a more upscale environment, Taveuni Island Resort (formerly Dive Taveuni) is an option. Finally, if you want your own private villa with wonderfully manicured gardens, the Garden of Eden is perfect for a family that has plenty of disposable income..

Where to Eat on Taveuni
There are some good inexpensive places to eat virtually all near the airport. I’d start with the modest restaurant at Tovutovu run by Alan Peterson. The food is very good and prices very reasonable. If curried crab is available on the menu get it. Rona Goldstein, who operates Coconut Grove, also has good place to eat near the airport with a splendid view of the sea. Karin’s Garden, also near the airport area has good local and German food. If you want a great catered meal of Indian food and you’re staying in the Matei area call Tomasi, the caretaker at Bob Goddess’ place (880 522) and he’ll whip up something wonderful. If you’re in Waiyevo (past Somosomo) be sure and check out the Cannibal Café which has inexpensive chop suey or curries.

Suva can lay certain claim to being the largest and perhaps the most liveable city in the South Pacific outside New Zealand or Australia. The capital of Fiji since 1883, it is set on 15 sq km of peninsula adjacent to one of the finest naturally protected harbours in the South Seas. It is home for about 90,000 people, with another 40,000 living in the fast-developing corridor along the 25-km stretch from the city limits to the airport at Nausori.

Perhaps the biggest drawback to the town is its weather, which is wet and often muggy. The nicest way to describe Suva is as a changeable town that gleams in the sunlight and turns metallic grey in the rain. And rain is not an uncommon occurrence in the capital of Fiji. Bring your umbrella.

Suva is a steamy cauldron of Fijians, Indians, Chinese, Tongans, Samoans, Rotumans, Solomon Islanders, Micronesians, Europeans and `fruit salad’ as they are locally called — those of mixed race. In and around Suva there are a variety of Christian churches, Hindu and Sikh temples, Muslim mosques and even an abandoned Jewish cemetery. Fiji’s capital, which can justifiably be called the hub of the South Pacific, has a modern array of communications facilities and has attracted a host of international bureaus and regional institutions such as USP, the University of the South Pacific. It’s also the headquarters for the FVB (Fiji Visitors Bureau) whose office is a manditory stop for guests.

How to Communicate

New in town are four different Internet Cafe type settings. One of the nicest is the Republic of Cappuccino just off Victoria Parade across the street from the Shell Service Station. You can also check out Alpha Computers near Cumming Street at Honson Arcade and Kahawa Cafe on Ellery Street across from the Sacred Heart Cathedral. Finally, the Government run Fiji Telecom also has a bank of Internet ready computers at its offices near the Fiji Visitors Bureau. Where to eat?

The Republic of Cappuccino features scones, muffins and of course good java. It’s hip and fun place to hang. You can find it just off of Victoria Parade.

For a really inexpensive place to find bread and other baked goods check out the Hot Bread Kitchen. (There are many scattered around Suva).

The Old Mill Cottage Cafe Restaurant on Carnarvon St. is a stone’s throw from the US Embassy. It has very fine food, clean surroundings and is among the best of the lunch-time eateries. The converted home with bench seating is very popular with government office workers because of its proximity to the Fijian government buildings. Innovative cookery includes Chinese dishes, curries and Fijian delicacies like taro and palusami (baked taro leaves with corned beef) cooked in lolo (coconut milk), and kuita (young octopus) in miti (light coconut milk dressing). The prices range from F$8 to F$12.

Hare Krishna Restaurant on Pratt St is run by adherents of the Hare Krishna sect and offers the best vegetarian food in town. The cafe has a pleasant air-con dining area upstairs that fills up for lunch, so get there early. Prices range from about F$10 to F$12 for a terrific all-you-can-eat meal. The restaurant also has the best ice cream in town. with flavors selection (including fig, almond, ginger and nutmeg, as well as the regulars). There is another branch on Cumming St, in case you need an ice cream, roti or Indian sweet while you’re on that side of town.

The Great Wok, in Flagstaff, is arguably the best (and one of the more expensive) Chinese restaurants in Fiji. It is equal to any good Chinese Restaurant in San Francisco and that’s saying a lot. It has all the touches – white tablecloths, good waiting staff and a great wine list – and is the place to go for a farewell dinner or a place to treat yourself in a moment of indulgence. Try the seafood. Prices are F$20 to F$40 for main meal

Cardo’s Chargrill & Bar on Regal Lane in downtown Suva is run by the capital city’s favorite raconteur and rascal–Cardo. Primarily known for its steak, Cardo’s is also a favorite watering hole for Suva’s cognoscenti. It’s a great place to meet locals and catch up on the latest gossip.

Shopping: Behind the post office, facing the sea on Stinson Parade, is the Government Handicraft Centre. It’s expensive but the quality is much better than the municipal market. Wolf’s Boutique on Thomson St. also carries good quality fare. Typical souvenirs include cannibal forks, tanoa (yaqona bowls), carvings, masi (Tongan-style bark cloth), seashell sand necklaces.

Sogos, or Tiki Togs, both on Victoria Parade have good quality clothing for men and women.

What to see:

Go to the Beach: There is a beach in town but it doesn’t amount to much. Your best bet for a decent beach is to head down to Pacific Harbour, which is about 20 minutes by car or bus out of town.

Walking Tour: Suva is a walker’s town; most of it can be seen in one day if you have a sturdy pair of shoes and a healthy constitution. You need not be an Olympic athlete to take a walking tour, but the heat – especially for those not used to it – can make a stroll around Suva seem arduous. Some of the things to see include:

Victoria Parade, extending roughly from the post office to Thurston Gardens, is the `main drag’ and the heart of Suva. On it or nearby are most of the finest shops, the airline ticket offices, banks, travel agencies, the best hotel in town (Travelodge), the library, town hall, telegraph office, two of the most popular nightclubs and the classic Grand Pacific Hotel which is undergoing extensive renovation.

At the Municipal Market the Polynesian, Chinese, Indian and Fijian vendors hawk fish, meat, vegetables, fruit, coconut oil and nearly everything else that a Fijian household might need. Some sections (upstairs) deal entirely with kava root (both whole and ground). Other merchants sell Indian spices exclusively, display freshly caught shellfish, sell tomatoes or offer bundles of dalo (taro root). A section of new kiosks toward the bus station is the place to try `Indian sweets’, many of which are not sweet at all, but rather are highly spiced and tasty snacks. There is also a `yaqona saloon’ outdoors at the wharf end of the market dedicated solely to yaqona tipplers. As you walk by, someone may call over, urging you to have a bowl. Should you take them up on it, for a few cents buy a round for the house, which is the customary reciprocal thing to do.

Cumming St. is known for its fine restaurants and duty-free shops.It is crowded and narrow, reminiscent of a Paris or London backstreet.

On Victoria Parade, the Old Town Hall, constructed just after the turn of the century, is one of the finest examples of Victorian architecture. Not only did it serve the duties of government, it was also a centre for the performing arts and a host to concerts, vaudeville acts and amateurshows.

Just down the street, Albert Park was part of the original land grant given by the Polynesia Company to the government as an inducement to move the capital to Suva. Named after the royal consort to Queen Victoria, it is and always has been a general recreational park with a cricket ground and tennis courts.

Across from the park, the shoreline adjacent to the Grand Pacific Hotel (or GPH as it is called by locals) was once a landing spot for commoners from the nearby village. It was called Vu-ni-Vesi after a group of vesi trees that grew there. The first hotel built on this spot, the Hotel Suva, was little more than a shack but the GPH, which opened in 1914, was to set the standard for the entire Pacific. It was being being rennovated but that activity has ceased and no one really knows when if ever, it will restart.

Thurston Gardens on Victoria Parade contain a large collection of flora from throughout the South Pacific. Named after the amateur botanist and founder, Sir John Bates Thurston, the present site was opened in 1913. The gardens are well kept and almost always uncrowded. They are also an entrance to the Fiji Museum which has the finest collection of Fijian relics in the world. Among the exhibits are collections of war clubs, ivory necklaces, cannibal forks, spears, bowls, pottery, tools, cooking utensils, combs and a replica of a huge drua – an ancient, double-hulled canoe. One of the war clubs, which was actually used in battle, has several notches chiselled in it, each representing an enemy slain. You can also find actual relics from the famous Bounty.

Nightlife: Suva has plenty of nightlife for the interested. Clubs range from seedy dives to posh discos. Nightclubbing is a popular recreation for urban, single Fijians and is socially quite acceptable – many charitable and social organizations use the clubs as places to hold fund-raising dances.

Of these hallowed halls, Lucky Eddie’s aka Urban Jungle is a nocturnal institution in Fiji. It is modern, tacky, loud, generally safe from violent behavior and very popular with tourists. Entertainment alternates between live bands and disco, depending on the night. Admission is charged. The club is on Victoria Parade, opposite the old town hall.

Golden Dragon is also one of the most popular nightclubs in Suva, more so with locals than the tourists. There is no shortage of singles seeking companions. It’s on Victoria Parade, opposite the Fiji Development Bank.Admission is charged.

Birdland is a hip, subterranean lair on Carnavon Street in downtown Suva. Operated by a jazz fanatic and adorned with posters of Miles and Bird, they have live music on the weekends but mostly rock. The only jazz you’ll hear will be played on tapes and CDs. Nonetheless, this smoke-filled dive is the next best thing to the Village for miles around. Admission on weekends.

If there is one place that can be classified as the scene in town it’s Trapps on Victoria Parade. Noisey, smokey and more crowded than the Tokyo subway, it’s the bar to be seen in Suva. Great place for singles seeking companionship.